This is to wine what Carlsberg is to lager...

...probably the best in the world (ok, not the world, but possibly Italy). Why do I love this wine? 

It is authentic. It is not diluted with non indigenous grape varieties.

It has character, yet it is fine.

It is excellent value. If a wine of this quality was from the Médoc, it would be at least twice the price. 

It is perfect with food - the optimal balance of fruit, tannin, and acidity.

Perhaps most of all, it is evocative. It has the ability to transport the drinker to the place it was made. Isn't that terroir? Possibly, but this wine has a well defined sense of place. 4* 8/ 10

Fontodi

Always a personal favourite of mine, Fontodi is definitely one of the best Chiantis out there. Being a Chianti Classico, this is not a turbo charged, Frankenstein oak monster, as is so often the case with the riservas. When equivalent quality Bordeaux from what is a top estate in the region costs two to three times as much, why would you bother? This wine is seriously good and undervalued.

Chianti Classico, Fontodi, 2006
Very dark and brooding. Cedar and even rubber with Bordeaux-esque fruit on the nose. Still big tannins which are not quite fully integrated, but almost there (give it another 6 months to a year). Palette of prunes and morello cherries, in keeping with Sangiovese. A long finish backed by well balanced oak and acidity. The vintage was a good one and it shows but perhaps not enough acidity for me. A very good, well balanced wine and excellent value. Fontodi rarely disappoints. 3* 8/10

In the beginning... Villa Cafaggio

This is the wine that started my love affair with Chianti. Villa Cafaggio is one of the best producers of Chianti and it is both widely available and excellent value.

The Conca d'Oro

Like my all time favourite Chianti, Fontodi, the Cafaggio estate is located in the "Conca d'Oro" of Panzano in the Chianti Classico region.  Not only has Tuscany been blessed with an almost uninterrupted run of excellent vintages since 1999, but it is also probably the only terroir in the world capable of harnessing sangiovese to perfection. In a world where most wines struggle to assert themselves in what has become a commoditised market, it is beyond me why Chianti producers choose to dilute their unique identity with international grapes. Thankfully, this Chianti Classico is made entirely from Sangiovese and aged in traditional Slovenian oak casks.

Villa Cafaggio, Chianti Classico, 2007

Appearance: deep & sumptuous

Nose: the nose of an older, more mature vintage with eucalyptus, cedar and herbs

Palette: sumptuous, deep and soft fruit (blackberries & leather - almost Hermitage) with an elegant balance of acidity. Middle palette fades fairly quickly but the acidity whips up lovely mature tannins & black cherry fruit into a long fruity finish.

Conclusion: still in my top 3 Chiantis. An approachable & delicious wine but where can it go from here? 3.5* 8/10

Interesting everyday wines from Italy: part 2

Two wines this time...

Chianti, Malenchini, 2008

Situated within the Chianti Colli Fiorentini sub region only a few kilometers from Florence, the picturesque Malenchini estate produces a wide range of wines from table wine to a Super Tuscan, Bruzzico. From the middle of this range, the basic Chianti is made from 100% Sangiovese and is not aged in oak. It is therefore bursting with dense and ripe fruit and possesses everything I love about Italian wine in spades: indigenous grape varieties, moreish acidity & black cherry fruit, and food companions.

• A: Deep core with scarlet & lilac rim. 
• N: ?
• P: Soft tannins with rich blackcurrants, and crunchy cherries & red fruit on finish. 
• C: A great every day wine but with expressive terroir. I'd definitely reorder as a house red (£6.50, The Wine Society) 2* 7/10
  

Fiano, MandraRossa, Sicilia IGT, 2008

The previous vintage won a Decanter International White Single Varietal Trophy. I was therefore expecting a lot of this wine and I am happy to say that it did not disappoint. Possessing only a rudimentary knowledge of Italian, there was a limit to what I could find out about the wine on the Italian MandraRossa website. MandraRossa is a premium range of Sicilian wines produced by the Settesoli co-op in Menfi. Made entirely from the native Fiano grape and fermented in steel vats, the wine is therefore unencumbered by oak which would only overpower such a delicate and aromatic grape.

• A: Pale gold
• N: Honey on the nose, bit like a demi sec chenin
  
• P: Lovely lemon mousse palette with masses of steely minerality (reminicant of Chablis or Santorini) but little finish. 
• C: Nonetheless, a great & interesting wine and one I would not hesitate to reorder as a house white (£6.50, The Wine Society). 2* 7/10