Saturday, 23 March 2013


Always a personal favourite of mine, Fontodi is definitely one of the best Chiantis out there. Being a Chianti Classico, this is not a turbo charged, Frankenstein oak monster, as is so often the case with the riservas. When equivalent quality Bordeaux from what is a top estate in the region costs two to three times as much, why would you bother? This wine is seriously good and undervalued.

Chianti Classico, Fontodi, 2006
Very dark and brooding. Cedar and even rubber with Bordeaux-esque fruit on the nose. Still big tannins which are not quite fully integrated, but almost there (give it another 6 months to a year). Palette of prunes and morello cherries, in keeping with Sangiovese. A long finish backed by well balanced oak and acidity. The vintage was a good one and it shows but perhaps not enough acidity for me. A very good, well balanced wine and excellent value. Fontodi rarely disappoints. 3* 8/10

Saturday, 16 March 2013

Aubin & Spills

The last time I tried this I was surprised by its muteness. So, I left it for two years to see if it would blossom from its adolescence...

St-Aubin, 1er Cru Sur Le Sentier Du Clou, Henri Prudhon, 2007
Garnet, translucent ruby red. More on the nose than last time with a little more depth. Like biting into a Braeburn apple - crunchy, with lots of acidity yet bursting with fruit. An hour later, more complexity. A core of dark fruits with liquorice and fennel seeds. A nice long finish of well balanced creamy oak and cherry blackberry fruit. A light but interesting wine 2.5* 6/10

Sunday, 10 March 2013

2002 Burgundy face off!

A boef bourgignon on the table and two 2002 burgundies going tête-à-tête...

Beaune 1er Cru Montrevenots, Domaine JM Boillot, 2002
Tawny brick red colour with a stand out nose (cloves) that makes you sit up and pay attention. Showing age on the palette, with red fruits and even balsamic. A very structured and complex wine that reflects its proximity to Pommard and very good indeed. 4* 8/10

Savigny-les-Beaune, Les Bougeots, Domaine Simon Bize, 2002
A much more 'grapey' nose, reminiscent of fermenting wine in a cellar. Darker colour too, with blood like hues. It has that signature Bize meatiness and velvet texture with ripe acidity coating throughout the palette and a medium finish. Another good wine but the quality of the Beaune premier cru won on the day for its added complexity. 3* 7/10

Sunday, 3 March 2013

Super Savigny!

During a visit to the domaine in 2006, Jean-Jacques Girard explained to me that the vineyard is named after the little streams of water that snake down the vineyard after it has rained.

Savigny-les-Beaune, 1er Cru Les Serpentieres, Jean-Jacques Girard, 2004
Showing its nine years with a deep brick red colour. A captivating nose of game, red fruits and very reminiscent of Savigny. On the palette, some crisp vanilla undertones and bright cherry fruit with a classic mature burgundy flavours and a decent finish backed by well balanced oak and acidity. A point, and a very good wine on fine form.

4* 7/10