It is authentic. It is not diluted with non indigenous grape varieties.
It has character, yet it is fine.
It is excellent value. If a wine of this quality was from the Médoc, it would be at least twice the price.
It is perfect with food - the optimal balance of fruit, tannin, and acidity.
Perhaps most of all, it is evocative. It has the ability to transport the drinker to the place it was made. Isn't that terroir? Possibly, but this wine has a well defined sense of place. 4* 8/ 10